TP.HCM có rất nhiều ngôi chùa nổi tiếng về quy mô, tầm vóc và ý nghĩa lịch sử, như: Vĩnh Nghiêm, Việt Nam Quốc tự, Xá Lợi, Ấn Quang,… Tuy nhiên, một trong những ngôi chùa lâu đời nhất, từng được sắc phong của nhà vua và là nơi chứng kiến vua Minh Mạng chào đời, đến nay lại gần như không còn dấu vết sau bao biến động của thời cuộc. Đó là ngôi chùa Quốc ân Khải Tường tự của đất Gia Định xưa.
NƠI VUA MINH MẠNG TRÀO ĐỜI
Thiền sư Phật Ý-Linh Nhạc (1725-1821, là người đem chi phái Lâm Tế dòng đạo Bổn Nguyên vào miền Nam nước ta), vâng lời thầy theo lớp người lưu dân từ Đồng Nai xuống phía Nam. Trên đường đi, nhà sư gặp một tăng sĩ không rõ họ tên, cùng lứa tuổi và họ đã kết thành huynh đệ. Khoảng năm 1744, khi đến nơi ở mới là làng Tân Lộc (có tư liệu viết là làng Hoạt Lộc hay xóm Chợ Đũi), hai nhà sư cùng khai phá rừng và dựng lên am lá thờ Phật, gọi là chùa Khải Tường (ngụ ý mở rộng phước lành cho bá tánh). Sau này, vị tăng sĩ kết nghĩa huynh đệ với tổ Phật Ý (nay không còn biết tên) đã dựng nên ngôi chùa thứ hai, lấy tên là Từ Ân (ngụ ý nhờ lòng từ bi và ân huệ của Đức Phật mà dân chúng được bình an, tạo dựng cuộc sống ấm no hạnh phúc nơi vùng đất mới), vị trí ngày nay nằm trong công viên văn hóa Tao Đàn [1].
Tháng 9/1788, sau khi giành lại thành Gia Định, Nguyễn Ánh tập trung củng cố lực lượng, xây dựng thành trì, biến nơi đây thành trung tâm chính trị của triều Nguyễn sau này. Đến năm 1790, trong lúc thành Gia Định mới được xây dựng, hoàng gia và bộ máy quan lại phải tá túc ở hai ngôi chùa lớn nằm cạnh nhau là chùa Từ Ân và Khải Tường.
Tương truyền, lúc này, Nhị phi Trần Thị Đang (Thuận Thiên Cao Hoàng hậu) một đêm nằm mộng nhận được từ thần nhân một cái tỷ (ấn vua) sắc đỏ sáng như mặt trời và hai ấn (ấn quan) một cái sắc tía một cái sắc nhạt. Và cũng trong năm đó, ngày 25/5/1791, chính tại hậu liêu chùa Khải Tường, bà đã hạ sinh hoàng tử Nguyễn Phúc Đảm, người về sau trở thành vua Minh Mạng.
Sách Lược khảo Phật giáo sử Việt Nam của Vân Thanh, xuất bản tháng 3/1975, viết: “… chùa Khải Tường, Thôn Hoạt Lột, huyện Bình Dương, xây cất năm Tân Hợi (1791), hiện nay nền chùa là Trường Đại Học Y Khoa cũ, đường Trần Quý Cáp, do Nguyễn Vương Phúc Ánh kiến tạo để kỷ niệm nơi sinh Hòang tử Đởm (hay Đảm, tên vua Minh Mạng)”.
Tương tự, nhà nghiên cứu Vương Hồng Sển trong cuốn Sài Gòn năm xưa cũng cho rằng: “Chùa nầy có dật sử chính hoàng tử Đảm (sau lên ngôi là Đức Minh Mạng) sanh nơi hậu liêu vào năm Tân Hợi (1791) giữa cơn tị nạn Bình Tây Sơn. Qua năm 1804, Cao Hoàng nhớ tích cũ, để tạ ơn Phật dày công che chở mấy năm bôn tẩu nên gởi tặng chùa một cốt Phật Thích Ca thật lớn bằng gỗ mít, thếp vàng tuyệt kỹ” [2].
Do vậy, sau khi lên ngôi, vào năm Nhâm Thìn (Minh Mạng thứ 13, 1832), nhân bàn về mồ mả của tổ tiên, vua Minh Mạng đã lệnh cho bộ Lễ: “… Nhân đó nghĩ đến chỗ ta ở, chỗ nhà cũ của Tổng quốc công phu nhân tại ngoại thành Gia Định, vậy sai quan địa phương tìm hiểu xem…
… Đến đây, quan thành Gia Định tìm hỏi được di chỉ ở làng Tân Lộc, vẽ địa đồ dâng lên… Vua dụ rằng: “Làng Tân Lộc ở phía hữu thành Gia Định, khi trước Hoàng thái hậu ta theo Hoàng Khảo Thế Tổ Cao Hoàng đế ta vào Nam, từng đóng lại ở nơi ấy. Thực là hợp với điềm tốt: “Cầu vồng trôi ở bến hoa” [3] nghĩ đến đất quý phát phúc càng nên giữ mãi dấu tích để khuyến khích sau này. Vậy nên dựng ngôi chùa ở ngay chỗ đất ấy, gọi là chùa Khải Tường, để ghi sự tốt lành to tát chứng tỏ nơi phát phúc lâu dài”.
… Vua bèn lấy của kho 300 lạng bạc, giao cho quan địa phương, theo cách thức đã định của Bộ Công, gọi thợ xây dụng. Lại mộ các sư đến ở, hạn là 20 người. Các lễ tiết hàng năm, có ruộng tự điền được đặt để sung cấp. Phàm gặp tiết Thánh thọ, tiết Vạn thọ và các lễ: ngày trừ tịch trồng cây nêu, Tết Nguyên đán, Tết Đoan dương, tiết Tam nguyên, ngày sóc, ngày vọng đều dâng đồ cúng chay và hương nến” [4].
Theo bài viết của Thiền Hòa Tử Huệ Chí đã dẫn, chùa Khải Tường được sắc tứ là “Quốc ân Khải Tường tự”, mang ý nghĩa một ngôi chùa được tiếp nhận ân đức từ bậc quân vương và khai bày điều tốt lành. Quy mô của chùa Quốc ân Khải Tường từ ngoài vào trong gồm có lầu chuông trống ba gian hai chái; tiếp đến điện Phật ba gian; hai bên có hai hành lang dài nối với Tăng xá và nhà ăn đều ba gian hai chái.
Chùa làm xong được ngài Tế Tín (hiệu là Chánh Trực Hòa thượng) làm trụ trì cùng 18 Tăng chúng chịu trách nhiệm cai quản và trông nom. Đồng thời, vua còn cấp cho chùa 20 mẫu ruộng miễn thuế để chư Tăng tự canh tác, lấy hoa lợi thực hiện Phật sự vua giao. Đến khoảng năm Quý Mão (năm 1843) tức năm Thiệu Trị thứ ba, Giáo thọ Như Quang vận động các vị hoàng thân quốc thích, đồng bào Phật tử ủng hộ chỉnh trang nên chùa có quy mô tráng lệ hơn. Tại đây, các vị cao tăng hoằng dương đạo pháp, được triều đình bảo hộ nên Khải Tường tự trở thành ngôi chùa tiêu biểu, có ảnh hưởng rộng lớn đến quần chúng đạo Phật khắp Nam Kỳ lục tỉnh cho đến ngày Gia Định thất thủ.
Sau này, khi tấn công Gia Định, thực dân Pháp chia quân đóng rải rác tại Trường Thi, đền Hiển Trung (pagode aux Mares) và các chùa: Khải Tường (pagode Barbé), Kiểng Phước (pagode des Clochetons), Cây Mai (pagode des Pruniers). Trong đó, chùa Khải Tường do Trung úy Barbé (thuộc Trung đoàn đệ tam Thủy quân lục chiến) làm đồn trưởng. Barbé đem tượng Phật bỏ ngoài sân, cưỡng bức các sư phải rời chùa. Khi ấy, quan Kinh lược Nguyễn Tri Phương được triều đình cử vào Nam lập Đại đồn Chí Hòa chống Pháp. Đêm 7/12/1860, Barbé đã bị nghĩa quân Trương Định phục kích giết chết khi đang đi từ đồn chùa Khải Tường đến đền Hiển Trung (nay được cho là ngã ba Võ Văn Tần – Trần Quốc Thảo).
Trong tiểu luận tiếng Pháp xuất bản tại Sài Gòn năm 1934 có nhan đề La Pagode des Clochetons et la pagode Barbet (Contribution à l’histoire de Saïgon – Cholon) (chùa Chuông (tức Kiểng Phước) và chùa Barbet (đóng góp vào lịch sử Sài Gòn – Chợ Lớn), tác giả P.Midan viết: “Hiện nay chùa Barbet không còn dấu vết gì nữa” (tr.2). Dựa trên phương pháp chồng bản đồ, Midan cho rằng năm 1867 chùa Khải Tường thuộc sở hữu của công binh Pháp.
Sau đó, chùa được trưng dụng tạm thời làm nơi ở cho lính Pháp. Nghị định của đề đốc G.Ohier ký ngày 10/9/1869 đăng trên Bulletin de la Cochinchine (Tập san Nam kỳ) năm 1869 (tr.314) có ghi: Điều 1: “Chùa Barbet (nguyên văn: pagode Barbet) cùng pháo đài nhỏ bên cạnh và tất cả gian nhà nằm trên khu đất ấy sẽ được chuyển cho chính quyền địa phương”; Điều 2: “Dải đất nằm giữa đường l’Impératrice nối dài (nay là Nam Kỳ Khởi Nghĩa) và đất của nhà Lanneau dành để sau này xây dựng đồn hiến binh”; Điều 3: “Trong thời gian chờ đợi ngân sách của chính quyền thuộc địa dành cho việc xây dựng (đồn hiến binh), chùa Barbet cùng các gian nhà nằm trong pháo đài sẽ được trưng dụng làm chỗ ở cho hai lữ đoàn hiến binh”.
Tiếp đến, chùa được chuyển thành trường sư phạm trong nghị định ngày 12/8/1871: “Chùa Barbet và các tòa nhà liên quan sẽ được sử dụng làm trường Sư phạm Thuộc địa, bắt đầu thực hiện từ ngày 15/8/1871”. Như vậy, kể từ năm 1871, chùa Barbet được sử dụng làm cơ sở giáo dục. Trong phần chú thích, Midan còn cung cấp thêm nghị định ngày 17/11/1874 (điều 15) về việc chuyển Trường Sư phạm Thuộc địa thành Trường trung học Bản xứ (Collège Indigène) [6].
Thời gian sau, trên nền chùa bỏ hoang này, người Pháp cho xây một dinh thự dành cho quan chức trong bộ máy cai trị. Trước năm 1963 dùng làm trường Đại học Y Dược, sau khi chế độ Ngô Đình Diệm bị lật đổ, các tướng lãnh cho các cố vấn quân sự đến trú đóng. Sau ngày năm 1975, nơi đây được dùng làm Bảo tàng Chứng tích chiến tranh [7].
BỨC TƯỢNG PHẬT CÒN SÓT LẠI
Ngày lạc thành Khải Tường tự sau khi trùng tu, vua Minh Mạng đã dâng cúng một pho tượng Phật Di Đà ngồi kiết già trên tòa sen, trong tư thế Vajrasana (bảo tòa kim cương), được sơn son thếp vàng độc đáo, với hai tay chắp lại, hai ngón tay dính nhau và trên ngực có chạm hình chữ Vạn (Svastika).
Theo nhà nghiên cứu Trần Đình Sơn, tượng tạc bằng gỗ mít, sơn son thếp vàng, cao gần 2m. Đây là pho tượng Phật lớn nhất ở miền Nam đương thời, nên dân gian còn gọi chùa Khải Tường là “chùa Phật lớn” hay “chùa ông Phúc”. Tượng Phật chùa Khải Tường mang đậm phong thái người Việt. Với những đường nét cơ bản khắc họa những hình tướng tốt của một vị Phật, tượng như càng gần gũi với con người Việt Nam ngay từ hình thể, tư thế tự tại và nụ cười an nhiên “tùy sở trú xứ thường an lạc” (thuận theo nơi chốn mình đang ở mà giữ cái tâm luôn luôn yên vui).
Còn theo nghiên cứu về bảo tượng chùa Khải Tường, tiến sĩ Hồ Ngọc Liên (nguyên cán bộ Bảo tàng Lịch sử TP HCM) cho biết: Tượng tạc trong tư thế ngồi thiền kiết già, cao 1,96 m, gồm phần tượng và bệ sen, chất liệu bằng gỗ được sơn son thếp vàng, tóc xoăn khu ốc, hai dái tai dài, khuôn mặt tròn, hai tay để ngửa, có khắc chữ Vạn ở ngực. Đây là tác phẩm của các nghệ nhân cung đình ở Huế tạc vào đầu thế kỷ XIX. Căn cứ vào các nguồn sử liệu ghi chép và đặc điểm tượng cho thấy, đây là tượng do chính vua Minh Mệnh dâng cúng vào chùa Khải Tường và được đặt tại nơi trang trọng nhất trên Phật điện [8]. Bên cạnh tấm biển đang được lưu giữ tại chùa Từ Ân, tượng Phật này chính là hiện vật hiếm hoi minh chứng cho sự tồn tại trong lịch sử của “Quốc ân Khải Tường tự”.
Điều đáng chú ý là tượng Phật chùa Khải Tường chứa đựng những câu chuyện kỳ bí về sự tồn tại của mình. Sau khi chùa bị giặc Pháp phá hủy, tưởng chừng tất cả tượng và đồ tế tự của chùa sẽ bị chịu chung số phận. Tuy nhiên, khi ra tay đụng chạm đến tượng Phật quý, đã có nhiều binh lính và sĩ quan Pháp gặp phải tai ương và điều này được báo cáo lên Phủ toàn quyền của Pháp. Sau khi kiểm tra toàn bộ thông tin liên quan đến pho tượng, người Pháp đã nhận ra đây là bảo vật, cần giữ gìn cẩn trọng và đưa về bảo quản trong kho của Phủ toàn quyền Sài Gòn.
Có thể nói, chùa Quốc ân Khải Tường là ngôi già lam cổ nhất nhì ở vùng đất Sài Gòn – Gia Định, nhưng đã bị phá hủy dưới thời Pháp thuộc. Đến nay, sau gần 300 năm thành lập, chùa chỉ còn vết tích trong những trang sử sách và lưu lại một vài hiện vật quý báu. Nhưng chắc chắn nó sẽ còn được nhắc đến bởi không chỉ chứng kiến sự ra đời của vua Minh Mạng, mà còn là nơi ghi dấu sự kiện thực dân Pháp nổ súng xâm chiếm Nam Kỳ. Qua đó, góp phần minh chứng cho việc Phật giáo Nam bộ nói riêng và Phật giáo Việt Nam nói chung đã gắn liền với vận mệnh dân tộc trong suốt quá trình đấu tranh chống thực dân Pháp xâm lược.
Chú thích:
[1] Theo Thiền Hòa tử Huệ Chí (1983), Lịch sử chùa Tổ đình Giác Lâm, Bản đánh máy của chùa Giác Lâm.
[2] Vương Hồng Sển (2013, tái bản), Sài Gòn năm xưa, Nxb. Tổng hợp TP HCM, tr.198.
[3] Cầu vồng trôi ở bến Hoa: Nữ Ngung, đời Hoàng Đế, nằm mộng thấy sao lớn trên cầu vồng sa xuống trôi ở bến Hoa Chử. Nữ Ngung gặp sao ấy mà sinh ra Thiếu Hiệu.
[4] Quốc sử quán triều Nguyễn (1961), Đại Nam thực lục chính biên, Đệ nhị kỷ, bản dịch của Viện Sử học Hà Nội (tập XI), Nxb. Khoa học Xã hội, tr.173-174.
[5] Huỳnh Ngọc Trảng (2018), Sài Gòn – Gia Định, Ký ức lịch sử văn hóa, Nxb. Tổng hợp TP HCM, tr.81.
[6] Nguyễn Quang Diệu, Lê Công Sơn (2021), ‘Phòng tuyến chùa’ có một không hai tại Nam kỳ: Ngôi chùa nơi vua Minh Mạng chào đời, https://thanhnien.vn/ngoi-chua-noi-vua-minh-mang-chao-doi-post1099919.html
[7] Lý Nhân Phan Thứ Lang (2015), Sài Gòn – Gia Định một thời để nhớ, Nxb. Công An Nhân dân, tr.58.
[8] Lương Chánh Tòng (2016), Cổ vật kỳ sự: Tượng quý vua dâng chùa Khải Tường, https://thanhnien.vn/co-vat-ky-su-tuong-quy-vua-dang-chua-khai-tuong-post591557.html
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zmir’de güvenilir bir su arıtma servisi bulmak oldukça zor olabiliyor.
Ancak tavsiyelerle bulduğum bu servis gerçekten kaliteli hizmet sunuyor.
Arıza ve bakım işlemleri çok hızlı yapıldı!
İzmir’deki suyun kalitesi bazen sorun olabiliyor, bu yüzden düzenli su arıtma cihazı bakımı yaptırmak şart.
İzmir su arıtma servisi gerçekten işini profesyonel yapıyor.
Su arıtma cihazı bakımımı İzmir su arıtma servisi ile yaptırdım ve sonuçtan çok
memnunum. Ekonomik fiyatlarla harika bir hizmet sundular.
İzmir gibi büyük bir şehirde güvenilir bir su arıtma servisi bulmak çok
önemli. Bu servis, hem cihaz kurulumu hem de filtre değişimi konusunda çok hızlı ve etkili çalışıyor.
İzmir su arıtma servisi, hem ürün kalitesi hem de müşteri hizmetleri ile
beni oldukça memnun etti. Uzman ekibi sayesinde cihazım çok daha verimli çalışıyor.
Su arıtma cihazım için düzenli bakım yaptırmak önemliydi ve bu servis gerçekten işinde uzman. Hem
filtre değişimi hem de cihaz temizliği
hızlı bir şekilde tamamlandı.
Su arıtma servisi arayışındaysanız bu ekibi kesinlikle tavsiye ederim.
Hem profesyonel hem de çok uygun fiyatlı hizmet sağlıyorlar.
Arıtma cihazımızın performansı düşmüştü, ancak su arıtma servisi sayesinde cihaz adeta yenilendi.
Suyu artık çok daha berrak ve lezzetli!
Birçok farklı servis denedikten sonra burayı
buldum. Su arıtma servisi konusunda gerçekten güvenilir bir adres.
Hizmet kalitesi oldukça yüksek.
Evimizde uzun süredir kullandığımız su arıtma cihazı için filtre
değişimi yaptırdık. Su arıtma servisi ekibi işini özenle yapıyor
ve detaylı bilgi veriyor.
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